Crater Lakes to Kabale

We left our recuperative camp by the crater lakes early, feeling only marginally better than when we arrived. If anything the quads had tightened, and felt stiffer than ever. Fortunately the hard work of the previous cycling day left us with the advantage of altitude, and as we rolled down the bumpy dirt road, the fresh air revived us and our stiff legs stopped complaining quite as much.

The villages in this area, were basic by western standards and dishearteningly none of the children were at school this Wednesday morning. However, they were keen to shout encouragement, which grew with fervour as we cycled further from the tourist resorts around the lake, and we Mzungu (white people) became more of a spectacle.

After a quick stop for a Rolex, we reached the main road and returned to the smooth glide of tyre on tarmac. Motivation was still lacking slightly and we trundled on. After passing through a couple of industrial towns the road levelled, and hills opened out into a wide valley. Just visible to West was the outline of the Rwenzori mountain range, and to the East the outline of the Great Rift Valley.

We crossed the equator at midday, which in hindsight was not the smartest idea. So after a couple of quick photos, we pressed on towards Queen Elizabeth National Park- fulfilling one of Paddy’s long term goals of the Safari Cycle across a NP. Although the elephants and lions were sheltering from the heat of the day, we saw several herds of antelope and gazelle and, to our surprise a hippo plodding slowly across the savannah at least a mile or two from the river.

A hippo- the only animal sweating more than we were!

Despite the lush landscape, the wildlife of QE national park is not as abundant as it should be. The wildlife suffered hugely during the 1970’s as a result of the ‘Machine-Gun Hunting’, a past time of ex-dictator Idi Amine. Although these days are fortunately a thing of the past, the Park does not receive the protection it is due, and the lion population alone has suffered a 40% decline in the past 15 years. This recent decline is a result of corrupt park officials, who allow Congolese farmers to cross the border to graze their cattle within the park. This alone would not be an issue, but for the farmer’s ‘strategy’ of using a poisoned cow as a decoy to prevent the lions from hunting their cattle. This poison is then passed on to the lions or any other scavengers with catastrophic effects. This has led to the drastic reduction in the number of lions, and the hyena population of the park has been all but eradicated as a result. Considering QE is the most visited national park in Uganda, the future is not looking bright as long as the wildlife and resources remain so undervalued.

Pressing on out of the park, we climbed a steep hill on the other side in search of the home of Nicole, a Project Coordinator for Volcano Safaris, who we had been put in touch with through our friend Will Symes. Nicole’s main role is in the Community Development Projects, funded by the profits from the safari tours. These involved projects such as the Women’s Local Coffee Initiative, which encourage local women, to grow and process high quality local coffee which was then sold to the local safari lodges with profits going to the workers and local community.

We were treated to home grown vegetables from Nicole’s garden, and what we felt were much deserved cold beers. We camped above the gorge, where a river rushes below the thick canopy of the trees that provides the habitat for chimps and monkeys, and rested up for the following two days of hard hill climbing.

After a cooked breakfast and a couple of strong cups of the local coffee, we set of again for what promised to be a hard day’s cycling, climbing approximately 1000 metres, leaving the flat lands of the savannah far behind. We pedalled through the local villages, this time encouraged to see the children all on their way to school, however they still found time to run alongside us up the steep hills, pushing us along (me anyway) whenever our pace slowed.

As we climbed, the air cooled, and we felt refreshed and re-motivated in comparison to the lack-lustre pace of the previous day. We carried on up through tea plantations- which we have begun to associate with pleasant cycling terrain- pleasantly cool due to the altitude and smooth rolling hills.

A local tea picker working on the plantation

At Ishaka we branched from the main road onto what is marked as a B-road on our maps. These would be no more than bridleways in the UK, and thanks to a heavy downpour, the muddy track made for slow progress. We stopped for our usual 3 carb lunch, consisting of rice, posho (a white starchy stodge), and matoke (mashed plantain), served with an almost equally flavourless dipping sauce. Whilst enjoying our carbs, we pondered the lifestyle and opportunities available to the younger generations in these small towns due to the lack of education, jobs and transport links, and could easily see why many young people opt for the slums of Kampala as an attractive alternative.

A few miles on from lunch, we stopped briefly to witness the spectacle of the local healing hot springs, where 40 to 50 local men, women and children bathed in the steaming waters, witnessing the spectacle of two filthy cycle tourists washing in the ladies pool. Whoops.

We cycled swiftly(?) on, and as the afternoon became increasingly humid, we were relieved to reach tarmac once more after an uncomfortable 45 km of challenging off-road. We paused for a well timed soda break, and sheltered from torrential rain and thunder storm. Cycling down the hill, we enjoyed the cool air and moisture following the rain. Nightfall was fast approaching, but we were all too aware of the mosquitoes we would face if we didn’t climb out of the valley away from the marshlands before pitching out tent. As light was fading we cut off the road, to seek refuge by a church where the local priest granted us permission to camp after Paddy tried his best to tailor his religious beliefs to match those of the priest. I’d lost the love by this point and quietly cooked up dinner before retiring to my tent at the end of the hardest day’s cycling yet.

A misty morning behind the church

After the difficulties of the previous day we were left with a short 60km into Kabale, with rewards of flavoured food, cold beer and a day of recuperation. We had received warning of 70km of constant uphill to reach the town, but were relieved to find this a slight exaggeration. A snapped chain delayed us slightly, but our spirits were high and we pressed on quickly determined to reach town by lunchtime. We paused for a cup of tea (which proved to be hot milk) and a rolex and watched the children play in the most versatile of Ugandan toys.

The rubber tyre- suitable for ages 2+ to adult.

We climbed for about 30 minutes, as languages started to change and we heard our first shouts from locals in French, as we were now approaching Rwanda. The hills steepened and Pad did well to converse with the locals who chased him up the hill will barbequed corn on the cob, while I sweated behind.

10km from Kabale we stopped for a treat of laughing cow cheese on ritz crackers, admiring the view of the valley below and our improved climbing prowess and fitness. The final 10km into town passed in a blur, as we dropped down the other side of the valley, racing towards the rewards that only 600km of cycling over 6 days can make you really appreciate.

This stage done, it was time for some serious carb loading, a real shower and to catch up with old Uni mate, Will Symes who was working our here on the same Community Development Scheme as Nicole. Details of this and our rest day on Lake Bunyoni to follow next time.

Thanks for reading, and for the many generous donations we have already received. 33% towards our target of £2500. Get clicking people!