The Home Straight

Shortly after leaving Chimoio, we saw the first signpost for Maputo. Our lofty long-term destination for the past four months was final becoming a reality, but with 1,111km still to go we still had plenty of work to do. An hour or two later, we turned South on to the N1 which would take us all the way to the Capital. Another 730km later, we are now in the small town of Tofu, enjoying the warm waters of the Indian Ocean and a few days rest before the final three and a half day stint to the finish line. 

Leaving the clouds and Chimoio behind

On our last day cycling here we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn, marking 20° below the equator. Having started a few degrees North of the Equator in Kampala, it is interesting to compare the differences in our hard earned latitude, and the changes in the environment through which we have travelled. The sun no longer passes directly overhead but arcs to the North and provides some twilight before rising and setting at the now slightly slower pace. The days are now considerably shorter as we head South, meaning we have only a few hours cycling in the afternoon before dark, but fortunately the nights are cooler and much more comfortable, and we no longer have to endure the ‘boil in the bag’ style camping we suffered in the Tanzanian lowlands. We last swam in the Indian Ocean on the Tanzanian coast, some 1,000km north of here and 3,000km cycling ago and even the change in sea temperature is noticeable. It’s strange to think we’ve covered all this ground by bike and that the changes are so apparent. 

Seafood carried in the usual manner

Tomorrow we will head off on a three and a half day stint to Maputo. The end is now in sight and (hopefully) very achievable. At the start of the trip, thinking of anywhere but the 3-day target was ridiculous, and admittedly quite daunting. We planned each three or four day section, and our destination was the end of these days. We then plan another and set off on another short leg. Somehow these sections all piece together to form what has been an amazing adventure. 

Every now and then as we’re cycling we find our minds drifting to our arrival, imagining what it will be like and how we will feel. We try to indulge in these thoughts as little as possible, and concentrate on the task in hand, but as we get closer the thoughts return more often, wondering how we will feel when we do finally arrive. Relief will definitely be felt- no more 4:30am starts, no more 7 hour days in the saddle. Satisfaction at the completion of our journey- the route visible on a globe, and the figures- over 6,500km of cycling feels impressive to us. Gratitude for the experiences along the way, places we’ve seen and people we met, and what has been (despite some hardships) a very enjoyable challenge. I am also excited about returning home, catching up with family and friends, and of course with Emily.

Gunnar playing football with the locals

Now looking forward to the final 450km of cycling that remains, and will relish the ‘last’ of everything as it passes by. The last wild camp, the last (of many!) rice and tomato curry, the last hill climb, the last puncture? Despite my snapped saddle and the resulting discomfort, we will also relish the fitness we have gained along the way, and the ease with which we can now cover ground on our bikes. I am quite sure I will never be this fit again! 

But, it is still too early to be complacent. The final few days will still be hard and no doubt present challenges and dangers along the way. Fingers crossed however, that by Wednesday evening we will be enjoying a few hard earned beers and the completion of our journey.