The Last Hill in Tanzania

We left Morogoro feeling fully refreshed and clean after our stay with Kelly and Deon. Soon after leaving we crossed the 3000km mark, marking approximately the mid-way point of our trip. We enjoyed a short 70km afternoon ride to the edge of the Mikumi National Park, where pitched up for the night beneath an incredible full moon, and considered the numerous predators in the local vicinity. 

Mikumi is the only National Park in Tanzania that has a main road running straight through it’s centre. As a result, providing you are only passing through, no entrance fees are charged and we could enjoy a morning cycle safari across the 50km park. Home to all the big names in African safari it promised to be an exciting morning. In two minds about the prospect of seeing lions, we adopted a leisurely pace and kept our eyes peeled. We spotted numerous giraffe, zebra, elephants, gazelle and impala, and despite the warnings of ‘game viewing’ being strictly for paying visitors we found ourselves stopping for a few ‘rests’ at opportune moments. Interesting to note was the animals alarm at seeing bikes, and quickly scampered into the bush as they saw us approaching, however remained completely un-phased by the lorries and buses screaming past at top speed. 

Roadside game viewing in Mikumi

After our cycle safari we reached a real campsite, where we rested for the afternoon and came across our first other cycle tourers, and then shortly after our second. The first were a Swedish couple, cycling North from South Africa towards Ethiopia, who we swapped notes with on the various countries and routes we had passed through and gleaned some valuable info on Mozambique, through which they had already passed. The second was a solo Swiss cyclist who appeared to be in his 60’s, who had already cycled Alaska to the Tierra del Fuego, and was now heading North through Africa. He seemed concerned that we had just cycled across Mikumi NP, and equally surprised that the Swedes had come through Mozambique. He carried no tent, as he usually opted to sleep in deserted buildings or out in the open, and between ourselves and the Swedes we agreed his priorities with regards personal safety were a little warped after so long on the road! 

Our first full day on tarmac since Western Tanzania was an opportunity to see how our fitness has improved over the course of the trip, and without dirt roads/mud baths to contend with, we were keen to see what we could manage. We received warnings from the Swedes of “200km like this / “, as we would have to climb a good 1000m out of the Rift Valley towards the end of the day. By lunchtime we had already covered 95km, and stopped to enjoy chip omelet and roasted meat from the less-than-hygienic looking butchers shop. 

The classic tree-stump chopping block

The climb that afternoon was indeed ‘fairly hard’, but thanks to the Swedes exaggerations we reached the top in good spirits, having avoided the temptation and numerous offers of ‘skitches’ from the passing lorry drivers. We found a nicely concealed camping spot, and after 7 hours in the saddle, and a personal record 146km, were happy to crash to sleep. 

The next day, with sore bodies and aching legs, we headed on to the Old Farmhouse at Kisolanza. We had been recommended this spot for a restday and after 7 days straight it was not a moment too soon. The 100km passed uneventfully, with the exception of a record breaking skitch as I grabbed onto a lorry to catch Pad up who was cruising a few minutes ahead. His surprise was evident as I hurtled past at 76km/h with the cry of “Lightweight Buddy!”. Box ticked, never again!

The main attraction of the farm was its high altitude and cooler weather, which after the heat of the beach and lowlands we enjoyed immensely. Desperate to introduce some variety to our diet we managed to find some rhubarb for sale on the farm, and spent the afternoon making our very own rhubarb crumble- if only we had some custard, or even an oven to bake it in. Nevertheless, it was a delicious change to rice and meat with a little sauce. 

Cycling on from the farm, at an altitude of 2000m, we could have been back in the UK. Cold air, and low mist clinging to the pine trees made for a very agreeable alternative to baking in the heat. Refreshed after the rest day, and again enjoying the apparent ease of the tarmac, we had covered 100km by lunchtime. The afternoon was a little more relaxed, as we lost our valuable altitude and cruised for over 30km back down towards the plains, through what appeared to be sunflower growing territory. 

Traditional dwelling, sunflower farming and Game Reserve in distance

We found another perfect camping spot atop one of the small hills, with views of Kikoli National Park to the South and another large Game Reserve to the North, however had to do a small loop past it and back to allow the speedometer to tick over 150km for that day- another new record! A passing local recounted an elephant rampaging through the nearby village last week, and warned that we should be on the look out. The night, however, passed without any visitors. 

Our last full day in Tanzania was again to be a long and tough one. After the decent of the previous day, a mountain range and 2000m pass lay between us and Malawi. We cycled along the flat plains, as the looming range grew closer, and stopped for lunch before launching into the climb. Shortly into the climb, my bike made a disconcerting cracking noise, followed by the clang of broken metal hitting the road. Fortunately it was only the rail on my saddle snapping, nothing critical, but I have since been riding on an unusually angled saddle! The climb was relentless, with the only saving grace being the drop in temperature as we climbed, and the fact that with our heavy loads, pushing is at least as hard as peddling. As evening drew close, we were still hauling up the final section to the pass with our lungs and legs screaming. If I count my breaths I don’t have to think about the pain. 200 breaths to the top, 100 more, and then we were there- on top of the last hill in Tanzania, with staggering views of the plains below, scarcely believing we had been on those plains only a few hours earlier. 

A small wooded area provided a suitable campsite, and after our hard day we were rewarded with a massive thunderstorm, cooking dinner in the rain, and an invasion of ants whose nest I had just stepped in.

Pad hits 'mach ten' on the descent to Malawi

Our final morning in Tanzania was considerably easier than the day before, descending 1250m from the pass to the boarder over a very cruisey 75km. It was an opportunity to enjoy the scenery, and cast our minds back to our arrival in Western Tanzania some 2500km ago, and our experiences and undertakings since. I’ll remember Tanzania with great fondness- friendly and welcoming locals, wild and wonderful scenery and lots of rice with a little meat and sauce!