Moshi to Irente: Getting going again

After a few weeks away from the bikes we both returned slightly apprehensive. At the outset in Kampala we had been swept along in a wave of nervous anticipation, awaiting the headlong rush into the unknown. In Moshi, after our three week break, we knew our harsh realities – long hot, tiring days in the saddle, dirty clothes and lacklustre food. The rewards we sought were out there but they would only come if we could be determined enough to stick it out.

We left on a damp Sunday morning on 26^th February, slipping quietly past the runners and supporters of the Moshi  Marathon, the well-established event now into its 12^th year. Their sports nutrition resembled our own, as water stations handed sugary Coke to passing competitors. Our route over the next few days would take in the agricultural side of Northern Tanzania, passing large sugar cane and sisal plantations, before climbing into the fruit-bearing hills of the Usambaras.

Keen to avoid the busy main roads we headed directly south out of Moshi, into the huge 16,000 hectare Tanganyika Planting Company (TPC) sugar cane plantation. The heavy smell of burnt sugar and rising steam from the overnight rain and irrigation gave the feel of a sweaty kitchen to our mornings ride. Despite being a Sunday work was in full swing as we followed the locomotives down the narrow gauge railway to the factory. We took at left at the main village, complete with company golf club, and after a couple of hours on a sand track we popped out on the main road. Unfortunately the three week break had left Rick feeling the effects of the dodgy Kenyan cooking, and combined with a measly rice and beans lunch, we took the decision to break for an early camp. Opportunity arrived early as we found a spot next to the disused Tanga – Arusha railway, hidden from view by the stiff fronds our first sisal plantation. Sisal has had mixed fortunes over the years, initially essential to make rope it was superseded by plastics, however the last couple of years have seen a resurgence and once lifeless and unprofitable plantations are enjoying a long-awaited renaissance.

The narrow gauge line was first built by the Germans in 1911 (colonial rulers at the time) to transport coffee, tea and sisal to the port of Tanga. Work was interrupted by the arrival of the first world war and following a change of rule, the line was completed and extended by the British. Over recent decades the lines have fallen into various states of disrepair making it impassable. However there are plans for an overhaul and further extension. In a bid to compete with ports in Dar and Mombasa, the plans is for a $1.9 billion line linking Tanga to the Lake Victoria port of Musoma, an onward by sea to Uganda. Tendering has been won by a Chinese company, so we expect to see results in the coming years! For the moment, the line proved a useful walkway and grazing ground for local cattle herders, and a pleasant overnight camping spot for us.

Camp by the Tanga - Arusha railway

Feeling much refreshed we woke to stunning views of Mt Kilimanjaro to the North, and the Pare Mountains to the East. The 2000m peaks of the Pare mountains represent a string of mountains along the Tanzanian and Kenyan coastline which are unique in this region as they are not volcanic, instead being formed from the uplift of the Africa land mass over the Indian Ocean tectonic plate. In keeping with our overarching flexibility, the plan for the day was yet to be decided – the main road or an off-road detour? Things became much simpler a few kms in as we felt the first breaths of an ever stiffening breeze. “Strong Winds for next 100km” warned one of several signs. Our speed capped at 22kp/h downhill we dug in for 30km until our turning at Same junction, where we hung a left towards the Mkomazi National Park. Similar to the Serengeti and the Masai Mara, Tanzania’s newest park sits aside the Tsavo on the border with Kenya, and is home one of the few remaining packs of African Wild Dogs, as well as newly imported Rhino. Our loop skirted the edge of the park and circumnavigated the formidable looking Mt Shengena (2462m), to bring us back to the main road the next day. The route took us through a refreshing series of scenery changes, from bushland to forest and sisal plantation to rice paddies. We took the high ground that night and camped at the base of a telephone mast. With a little concern we watched thunderstorms dance across the horizon and asked the resident security guard if they might come our way.

“No, they are all going the other way!”  he reassured us.

Sure enough a few hours into the hot and sticky night we were caught in a torrential downpour, which a mixed blessing which cooled us off considerably, but left us a little bit damp in patches.

It wasn't a tailwind

We arrived back on the main road with a pleasant surprise awaiting us. The wind had turned and we had a strong tail to send us on our way to Mombo, the gateway into the Usambara’s. At this point it’s useful for a reader to know that our map is German, and therefore is reassuringly accurate. However, at a scale of 1:1,250,000 and with contour lines of 500m there is only so much that Germany can help us, and that afternoon was a case in point as what looked like about 1000 meters of climbing proved to be a bit more…

Looking back down the valley

We arrived in Lushoto, 5km short of our original aim of Irente Biodiversity reserve, half an hour after darkness had set in and explained our afternoons efforts to the Greek owner of the Lawns Hotel, the first camping site our head torches had picked out on our arrival.

“Yes, that is a long way. Mombo is at 150m and here we are 1450m”.

Having crossed another smaller pass in the middle of that climb, what had looked like 1000m turned out to be well over 1500m, a hard day’s work in any Alpine climbers books. Exhausted and feeling the aches of our day we digested the afternoon efforts over a couple of cold beers and a three course meal in the hotel bar.  Despite the extremes of exertion, the climb had given us some stunning views, the road had wound through a long valley before emerging into the heart of the Usambaras at Soni. Although we had initially the heat had felt oppressive the height had cooled us off and encouragement from passing locals (and monkeys) had cooled us off. Needless to say we slept soundly well into the next morning.

Looking like we feel at top of climb

Eating into our rest morning, we completed the final 5km to Irente where we were greeted by Annette Murless and some locally produced jams, chutneys and cheeses. The Lutheran mission uses profit from tourism and food processing to help protect the natural habitat of the mountains. It is undoubtedly a worthy cause. The Usambara’s are one of 25 world biodiversity sites, they have over 600 tree species alone (compared with 58 in all of Northern Europe) of which 25% are endemic. The key to this diversity is age, over 100 million years ago the forest separated from the Congo basin ecosystem making creating an ancient island ecosystem surrounded by savannah.

1000m's below is a headwind

We wiled away our afternoon and took a short walk to a spectacular 1000m view over the plains below, making it back just in time to shelter from another thunderstorm, and with the help of map donated by Annette, we planned our route off the mountains the next day.